We always use the best primers, paints, and coatings for your project. We use the leading Manufacturers of paint products like PPG Dulux. Using Dulux\u2019s best brands, as well as great brands from Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, and other top manufacturers, ensure our best results.<\/p>\n
Our estimators will assess each job and provide you with recommendations on the best primers, paints, and coatings for the project. We provide you with products that will achieve the desired look and durability needed.<\/p>\n
We begin the process of choosing the best products by looking at the current conditions of the area, understanding the desired outcome the client wishes to achieve, and looking at any underlying issues with the surface or previous coatings.<\/p>\n
Once that analysis is complete, we will then recommend primers, paints, and coatings suitable for the area. This recommendation means that we select a manufacturer, a type of product, and then the brand and finish ideal for the job.<\/p>\n
To simplify the selection process, we recognise that all major paint manufacturers produce great products. The top three manufacturers of paint are Dulux PPG Paints, Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore.<\/p>\n
They all have excellent quality paints and coatings. Their top brands are high-quality products, and the difference between each top line is an exercise in splitting hairs. Their brands, such as Dulux\u2019s Diamond, Weatherguard, Super Paint, Regal line, and many others, apply well, look good, and wear well.<\/p>\n
Most wood siding and shingles will receive a flat acrylic paint for a finish coat; although, a satin finish is a close second.<\/p>\n
Wood siding and shingles can also have stains applied which are usually solid. Semi-transparent can also be suitable, but in most cases, due to the requirement of frequent recoats to ensure protection, it is not always a practical choice.<\/p>\n
Other finishes, such as a semi-gloss or gloss, are available. However, they are not as aesthetically pleasing, and, in the case of rough surfaces, they will show the roughness more readily.<\/p>\n
Trim (trim boards, door frames and windows) will receive a semi-gloss acrylic paint for a finish coat although a satin finish can work too.<\/p>\n
Trim (trim boards, door frames and windows) can also have stains applied which is usually solid. We can also use semi-transparent, but, in most cases, due to the requirement of frequent recoats to ensure protection, it is not a popular choice.<\/p>\n
Other finishes, such as a flat, can be suitable for trim (trim boards, door frames and windows) but provide less durability. Gloss can also be used but can accentuate rough surfaces.<\/p>\n
The most common finish for doors is a semi-gloss acrylic paint for a finish coat; although, a satin finish can work too.<\/p>\n
Doors can also have stains applied which are usually Semi-transparent with a coat of varnish for protection.<\/p>\n
Other finishes, such as a flat acrylic, can be suitable for doors but provide less durability. Gloss can also be used but can accentuate rough surfaces.<\/p>\n
Most vinyl siding and plastic will receive a high-quality, satin, acrylic paint for a finish coat.<\/p>\n
Stains are not used on vinyl siding.<\/p>\n
Primers are not generally required for vinyl siding; for plastic, we can use a product such as XIM primer if required.<\/p>\n
Most high-quality exterior paints are self-priming. The paints recommended for vinyl siding are self-priming, although priming is not required in the painting of most vinyl siding. Plastics are dependent upon the type of plastic but a safe procedure is to avoid self-priming products and use an XIM primer.<\/p>\n
Decks and fences usually have a coat of a solid waterborne alkyd stain. We can also use a semi-transparent waterborne alkyd.<\/p>\n
Paints are not commonly used for decks and fences but can be applied. The most common paints for decks and fences when required are:<\/p>\n
Most stucco will receive a flat acrylic paint for a finish coat; or, a High Build elastomeric or non-elastomeric coating. Low build products are suitable for acrylic stucco.<\/p>\n
Stains are not<\/strong> suitable for stucco.<\/p>\n Most brick and masonry, when painted, will receive a flat acrylic paint for a finish coat. When staining products similar to Permacrete Colour Seal, we use WB and SW Loxon.<\/p>\n Most aluminium siding will receive a flat acrylic paint for a finish coat; although, a satin finish is an option too.<\/p>\n Stains are not<\/strong> suitable for aluminium siding.<\/p>\n Most metal surfaces will receive an industrial acrylic such as a semi-gloss Pitt Tech Plus for a finish coat; although, a satin finish is an option too.<\/p>\n Stains are not<\/strong> suitable for metal surfaces.<\/p>\n Spar varnish is an expensive varnish that is specially formulated for exterior use and is the only varnish that we use for exterior application.<\/p>\n Varnishes fall into two categories modified acrylic varnishes and the traditional oil-based varnish (where available). Most brands and manufacturers also have a range of finishes (sheens) matte, lo lustre, satin, semi-gloss, gloss and high gloss. Neither of these varnishes is recommended for exterior use as they have little UV protection.<\/p>\n We always use the best primers, paints, and coatings for your project. We use the leading Manufacturers of paint products like PPG Dulux. Using Dulux\u2019s best brands, as well as great brands from Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, and other top manufacturers, ensure our best results.<\/p>\n Our estimators will assess each job and provide you with recommendations on the best primers, paints, and coatings for the project. They will provide you with products that will achieve the desired look and durability needed.<\/p>\n We begin the process of choosing the best products by looking at the current conditions of the area, understanding the desired outcome the client wishes to achieve, and looking at any underlying issues with the surface or previous coatings.<\/p>\n Once that analysis is complete, we will then recommend primers, paints, and coatings suitable for the area. This recommendation means we select a manufacturer, a type of product, then the right brand and finish for the job.<\/p>\n To simplify the selection process, we recognise that all major paint manufacturers produce great products. The top three manufacturers of paint are Dulux PPG Paints, Sherwin Williams, and Benjamin Moore.<\/p>\n These manufacturers all have excellent quality paints and coatings. Their top brands are high-quality products and the difference between each top line is an exercise in splitting hairs. Their brands such as Dulux\u2019s Diamond, Lifemaster, Super Paint, ProMar, Ben line, and many others apply well, look good, and wear well.<\/p>\n Most ceilings will receive a flat latex paint for a finish coat. For a previously glossy alkyd finish or a previously unpainted stucco ceiling, a waterborne alkyd would be the right choice. In some cases, a semi-gloss is an option, especially for areas with a lot of cleaning or moisture.<\/p>\n Primers for ceilings consist of latex sealers and primers for new drywall. In the case where staining or adhesion is an issue, a waterborne alkyd primer, such as Kilz or BIN can be suitable.<\/p>\n For warehouse ceilings and structural ceilings in commercial buildings, we recommend a drywall acrylic product.<\/p>\n The vast majority of residential home walls use an eggshell finish. It is a lower sheen paint that looks good and wears well. Good quality eggshell acrylic latex is our product of choice.<\/p>\n A semi-gloss finish is a good option, especially for areas that are high traffic and require a lot of cleaning or have moisture present.<\/p>\n Matte finishes are less common but provide an excellent look for the right home. You must choose a matte paint that is washable such as Diamond Matte finish.<\/p>\n Low lustre and satin are also available; they have different sheen levels for wearability and appearance.<\/p>\n Primers for ceilings consist of latex sealers and primers for new drywall. In the case where staining or adhesion is an issue a waterborne alkyd primer, Kilz or BIN can be suitable.<\/p>\n A semi-gloss finish is suitable for most residential trim: baseboards, doors, windows, and other wood trim. (It should also be noted that white is the most common colour for trim). Semi-gloss is a higher sheen paint that looks good and wears well while not being too shiny. Semi-gloss acrylic latex is the product of choice, and, if adhesion presents as an issue, we will use the waterborne alkyd semi-gloss.<\/p>\n A Gloss finish can be an option, especially for areas that are high traffic and require a lot of cleaning. However, this finish is not a common choice for most homes.<\/p>\n Matte finishes are a little more common than gloss. They provide a softer look for trim in the right home. You must choose a matte paint that is washable such as Diamond Matte finish. Low lustre and satin finishes are also available; these have different sheen levels for wearability and look, and are functional for most residential homes.<\/p>\n Primers for trim consist of waterborne alkyds with most products being self-priming. In the case where adhesion is an issue, we recommend a waterborne alkyd primer. For stains and knots, Kilz or BIN is preferable.<\/p>\n Varnishes fall into two categories: modified acrylic varnishes and the traditional oil-based varnish (where available). Most brands and manufacturers also have a range of finishes (sheens) matte, lo lustre, satin, semi-gloss, gloss, and high gloss.<\/p>\n Epoxy coatings have a wide variety of types and purposes. The ones we use are acrylic based and solvent-based, with most being two components while some are a single component.<\/p>\n Our estimators will assess each job and provide you with recommendations on the best primers, paints, and coatings for the project.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":148097,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[448],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-148096","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-resources"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/148096","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=148096"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/148096\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/148097"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=148096"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=148096"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elitetradepainting.com\/mississauga\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=148096"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Primers for Stucco<\/h3>\n
\n
\nMany exterior paints are self-priming, and, for most stucco painting projects, we use these products as the primers. The key with self-priming paints is that you prime the areas needed with the product prior to applying the finish coat. You must wait for the recoat time for the self-priming paint to work as a primer.<\/li>\n
\nWaterborne alkyd primers are generally not used for stucco.<\/li>\n
\nIn the case where staining is an issue, a Kilz or BIN can be suitable.<\/li>\nWhat are the Best Finish Coats, Paints, and Stains for Brick and Masonry?<\/h2>\n
Primers for Brick and Masonry<\/h3>\n
\n
\nProducts used for brick and masonry are self-priming, and, for most projects, we use these products as the primers or first coats.<\/li>\n
\nWaterborne and alkyd primers are not suitable for brick and masonry.<\/li>\n
\nIn the case where staining is an issue, a Kilz or BIN can be suitable.<\/li>\nWhat are the Best Finish Coats Paints and Primers for Aluminium Siding?<\/h2>\n
Stains for Aluminium Siding<\/h3>\n
Primers for Aluminium Siding<\/h3>\n
\n
\nMany exterior paints are self-priming, and, for most aluminium siding painting projects, we use these products as the primers.<\/li>\n
\nThis type of primer can be suitable if there are adhesion concerns for the aluminium siding.<\/li>\n
\nIn the case where staining exists, Kilz or BIN can be suitable.<\/li>\nWhat are the Best Finish Coats Paints and Stains for Metal?<\/h2>\n
Stains for Metal<\/h3>\n
Primers for Metals<\/h3>\n
\n
\nMany industrial acrylics, such as Pitt Tech plus, that are common for metal are self-priming, and, for most projects, we use these products as the primers.<\/li>\n
\nThis type of primer, such as Pitt tech plus DTM primer, can be suitable if there are rust or adhesion concerns on metals.<\/li>\n
\nIn the case where staining exists on metal, we use Pitt tech plus DTM primer as a primer.<\/li>\nVarnishes and Stains best coatings<\/h2>\n
Spar Varnish<\/h3>\n
Acrylic and Oil Varnish<\/h3>\n
A Guide to the Best Interior Paints and Primers<\/h2>\n
What are the Best Paints, Primers, and Coatings?<\/h3>\n
How we choose the best products?<\/h3>\n
Recommendations<\/h3>\n
All major Manufacturers have great paint.<\/h3>\n
Best Primers, Paints, and Coatings for Ceilings<\/h2>\n
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Best Interior Primers, Paints, and Coatings for Walls<\/h2>\n
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Best Interior Primers, Paints, and Coatings for Trim (baseboards, doors and windows)<\/h2>\n
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Best Interior Primers, Paints, and Coatings for Cabinets and Built-Ins<\/h2>\n
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\nWe paint most of our cabinets and built-ins with a high-quality acrylic product; they are durable and provide excellent adhesion.<\/li>\n
\nA semi-gloss acrylic finish is suitable for cabinets, built-ins, and other wood trim. Semi-gloss is a higher sheen paint that looks good and wears well while not being too shiny.<\/li>\n
\nA satin finish is a lower sheen than semi-gloss. This finish provides equal durability to semi-gloss with a soft sheen and is preferable for many of our clients for their cabinets and built-ins.<\/li>\n
\nMatte finishes are a little more common than satin or semi-gloss. They provide a flat finish look for cabinets and built-ins. You must choose a matte paint that is washable such as Diamond Matte finish.<\/li>\n
\nWe prime cabinets and built-ins to ensure better adhesion. Our preferred primers are high adhesion primers such as Kilz or BIN. Waterborne alkyds are also suitable.<\/li>\n
\nWe recommend Kilz primer<\/strong> for cabinet painting projects<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nVarnishes and Stains best coatings<\/h2>\n
\n
\nThe more popular acrylic varnishes are easy to use, with water clean up, and provide a hard-durable surface good enough for floors. They also have excellent adhesion.<\/li>\n
\nThe main difference between the oil and acrylic is that oil will colour the wood, providing a darker and richer look with a coat of oil varnish. The oils, because they are harder to use, are less environmentally friendly and do not provide any significant advantage over the acrylic varnishes. These factors make oil varnishes less commonly used.<\/li>\n
\nThere are many types of wood stains and many colours with boutique manufacturers and larger, more popular products such as Minwax and Old Masters. Stains can be oil or acrylic and can also be gel (applied by a rag) or penetrating stains (applied by a brush or rag).<\/li>\n
\nStaining, in general, is done on bare wooden surfaces, as they penetrate the wood itself and no barrier can exist between the stain and wood. It should be noted that some stains are suitable for non-wooden surfaces.<\/li>\n
\nPrior to the application of any stain, there should be an application of a wood conditioner to open the wood for better absorption of the applied stain. We recommend that after stain application and penetration, the excess is wiped off with a rag. (It is important to remember that you must safely store any oily rags in a sealed metal container half-filled with water).<\/li>\n
\nAfter completing the staining, applying a couple of coats of varnish is necessary to enhance and protect the surface.<\/li>\n
\nWhere a surface has significant discolouration, a combination of stain and urethane product, such as polyshades is recommendable for application. The use of these types of products is to enhance the colour of the surface, as well as, in some cases, change the colour of the surface. It should be noted that on large surfaces such as doors polyshades may not produce optimal results.<\/li>\n
\nNew wood trim, stairs and doors can be stained; these stains come in a variety of colours. Staining is only suitable when the wood itself is a stain grade product. Staining means the application of a coat(s) of penetrating or wiping stain to the wood surface using a brush or a rag. Once the stain has dried, it is common to protect the area with a varnish. The varnish comes in a variety of sheens and is a clear product. We apply a minimum of two coats of varnish to these surfaces.<\/li>\nWhat are the Best Epoxy Coatings?<\/h2>\n
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\nTwo-component epoxy consists of a base and a catalyser; these are mixed to activate the component. Two-component epoxy will have a limited timeline for application once catalysed. Once the open, or pot, Lifetime passes, the product becomes hard and is unusable.<\/li>\n
\nA single-component epoxy is already catalysed with no mixing needed. It can be significantly easier to use than two-component epoxy, although single-component epoxies are less durable.<\/li>\n
\nThe two-part solvent-based products are what we recommend for floors. These are exceptionally durable products; however, they are not resistant to hot tire pick up and need to cure before heavy usage. To avoid hot tire pick-up, a coating of PSX is needed once the epoxy is applied.<\/li>\n